This article was last updated on April 16, 2022
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New York Fashion Week was less robust than usual, but the trends presented during it were quite the opposite. Over the last five days, showgoers were privy to a whole host of sensational moments, from huge, Renaissance-inspired dresses to extravagant accouterments. And from where we’re sitting (read: reminiscing about the 100+ shows and presentations that we bore witness to this week), there’s a lot to discuss, despite the shortened show schedule.
From the get-go, we knew that NYFW would be dramatic, to say the least. Christian Siriano’s 68-piece collection, which kick-started the week, was proof of that. The designer created fashions to the theme of Margot Robbie’s new Harley Quinn-led film Birds of Prey, including exaggerated silhouettes like extra-large shoulders and voluminous petticoats. In the days following, Christopher John Rogers presented runway-sized gowns in electric hues; Rodarte (whose show marked the brand’s long-awaited return to New York) offered up a darkened, more gothic version of femininity; Proenza Schouler reminded us that sex appeal can still, in fact, be stylish; and Marc Jacobs transported us back in time to the ‘70s with monochrome suits à la Jackie Kennedy.
It wasn’t just the clothing that left an impression, though — the accessories were far from subtle. Models at Khaite wore tights printed with geometric patterns; bows and ribbons were adorned on garments at Carolina Herrera and Brock Collection; and elegant evening gloves (not unlike Ariana Grande’s at the Grammys) could be seen at Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs.
For a NYFW that felt, structurally, in flux, designers still managed to create forward-facing collections that will surely go on to shape the industry in seasons to come. See exactly what we mean by clicking through the trends that left the biggest mark during New York Fashion Week’s fall ‘20 season in the slideshow ahead.
Dress For Decadence
In the middle of a particularly gray winter, we all sometimes need an escape from our everyday lives. Therein enters decadent fashion: clothing and accessories that offer a lavish getaway from the often mundane moments of February in New York. Christopher John Rogers transformed Spring Studios from an all-white Ikea-like space into a romantic locale — the perfect backdrop for his 40-piece collection of billowing gowns.
Brock Collection’s Marie Antoinette-like dresses were similarly decadent, with models wearing sheer lace masks over their simply made-up faces and corset-clad dresses in feminine florals. Rodarte’s NYFW return, set in St. Bartholomew’s Church in Midtown, was overwhelming in its beauty, sparking emotion in all of those in attendance. Suffice to say, returning to real life won’t be easy after experiencing the opulence presented this week.
Brock CollectionPhoto by Peter White/WireImage.
Self-PortraitPhoto Courtesy of Self-Portrait.
Adam LippesPhoto by: Jason Lloyd Evans.
Carolina HerreraPhoto Courtesy of Carolina Herrera.
Christopher John RogersPhoto by Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images.
RodartePhotography by Greg Kessler.
Un-Tailored Tailoring
There’s almost nothing that we love more than an ironic trend. So, naturally, we’ve fallen hard and fast for tailoring that was anything but tailored: Blazers with shoulder pads so big that they were slouching halfway down models’ arms (in other words, nowhere near the actual shoulders); trousers that bunched up around lug-soled loafers; and slouchy button-downs with asymmetric and often oversized collars. Suits — traditionally designed to be perfectly fitted — are now purposely un-fitted, as seen at Monse, The Row, 3.1 Phillip Lim and more.
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